VAL DI NOTO

Where also the time seems to be lost between the little stone fountains and the imposing churches, in the twilights and still warm lights of the evening, Ragusa Ibla founded probably by the Siculi in XIVth century b.c., followed the fate of all Sicily and, for this reason, it has been subject to several and very different dominations, till when, in 1693, was completely razed by a violent earthquake. Historiography and legend are melted, since this moment, trying to explain still now the coexistence of two urban cores so close one to each other, Ragusa nuova and Ragusa ibla. But, whatever is the truth, the whole city is a wonderful example of baroque architecturewhich, properly, considers it in the district of the Val di Noto between the World Heritage’s monuments. Who could understand deeply the love for genuine sicilian food, he can go eating in one of the several restaurants which fill the fascinating and irregular main square overlooked by San Giorgio’s Dome.

But another little and picturesquetown is full of little paths and streets, rich of old shops and alternate to little houses and monumental palaces: this is Modica, with is houses “clung” to the rocks and leant to a little projection, from the bottom of the valley until the top of the mountain which hosts it. Modica, with its monumental churches, its elegant baroque and its religious festivities,lived in a so sweeping way. Particularly, you’d have to watch the feasts in honour of the Patron Saints, San Giorgio and San Pietro, the feasts in honour of San Antonio da Padova, the 13th of July, when in the large square of the friary of “Cappuccini” you can taste the medicane beans prepared by the same friars, with a very good red wine and home made bread. At last, show full of piety and folklore, during the Easter’s feasts, the “Madonna Vasa Vasa”: the simulacrum of the Holy Mother and of the risen Christ, are carried on the shoulders throughout the city because they are looking for each other. And when finally they meet, the holy mother let the black mantle fall, from which white doves fly away, and runs towards her sonto kiss him. Before living this typical town, you have to stop in one of the several pastry shops to taste the wonderful chocolate, typical of Modica, realized still today according to the oldest azteque traditions and reinterpreted by the inspiration of the chocolate maitre.

Leaving Modica, with the cinnamon and vanilla back taste still in your mouth, we meet Ispica, little but evocative example of landscape riches of Sicily. Of the typical 18th century’s chess urban structure the town keeps one of the most important art nouveau building of the district of Ragusa, Bruno Belmonte Palace, design by Ernesto Basile in 1906. But the most intense charm of Ispica, whose name was until 1935 Spaccaforno,is for sure the deep Cava d’Ispica canyon, millenarian custodian of the precious natural and historical - archaeological heritage of Sicily, where the prehistoric necropolis, christian catacombs, the monasteries and several and different bizantyne, medieval, renaissance and XVIIth finds, witness surely human presence since the bronze age until 1693.

More recent but likewise magic and charming, in 20km from Ragusa, it rises the Donnafugata Castle. The name doesn’t have to deceive. No lady escaped from the imprisonment, as many legends say, but only the free interpretation of the arabian expression ain-as-jafat, health source, transformed in sicilian way “Ronnafuata” and then readapted in theactual name. The Donnafugata Castle , with its 2500mq and about 122 rooms, was wished by the baron Francesco Maria Arezzo de Spuches and conceived as a wonderful resort. That which strikes the look and the memory is the whole of architectural styles.Neogotical, neoveneziano, at intervals arabian the castle is the witness of care and importance that sicilian aristocratic families devoted and awarded to “country houses”, buen retiro of the owner for long periods of the year. Fortified farm. Castle. Strange manor-house.